• Peel the back off the Scor-Tape of the side piece just attached and attach it to the side of the next star point working to have the center fold line up with the next point.
• Remove the Scor-Tape from the other edge and attach that side as well.

• Continue around the star adding each edge piece to the previous one and adhere to the edge.
• When you get to the end adhere the last tab to the inside of the first edge making the star edge complete all around the star piece.

6. Build the internal layers.

• The five internal layers of the shadow box are assembled together as a unit and slid into the star frame. The photo to the right shows the completed stack. This is what the next series of steps will guide you through completing. Going up each side of the star is a folded side bracket. There are ten holding the layers in place.

• Although there are some minor differences, Part 2 of the Heart Tree  Video tutorial mirrors these steps. Watch that video for a better understanding of making the interior stack.

• There are 10 side braces. Eight have no holes but do have rows of dotted lines. Two have holes. I added an extra hole after taking these photos. The two with the holes go on the bottom two sides of the star. The holes will be used to hold lights. The other 8 are for the the other 8 sides of the star.
• Notice the notch on one end of the side braces. That is to help in identifying the edge that will be at the front. Keep track of the notch through out the tutorial. It should be toward the front.

• The side brace is made up of sections that are 1/2" separated by 2 3/8" sections. The 1/2 " sections will face the center of the design.

• Turn the side brace over and apply Scor-Tape to the bottom section as well but on the opposite side from all the other Scor-Tape.
• Repeat this for all 10 side braces.
• Assembly will be much easier if you apply the Scor-Tape in advance.

• It is time to start adding the side braces to the layers. Locate Layer 1 which has 2 pine trees in the center area. 
• The notch where my finger points is the V notch of the star. There are 5 on each star. It is here you will line up the side braces.
• Each side brace will meet in a notch.

• Here is a diagram of the side view of what the stack of layers will look like. The green line shows the star base. The blue line is the folded side braces and each red line shows the various layers and how they will stack up. The side braces will keep them separated and in place.
• The directions have you start at the front with Layer 1. It will get adhered into the first folded V slot in the side brace. You will want it to go all the way in right up again the fold.
• Placement is very important so things will line up and fit inside the star. 
• Pay close attention to every placement.
• You will start with layer 1.
• Make sure every side brace you attach to layer 1 has the notch end near layer 1.

• Repeat this on the other bottom star side to the right of the one just adhered.
• The second one (also with holes) butts up to the first one in the notch and gets adhered to the star in the same fashion.

• Continue around the outside edge of the star adhering a side brace to each of the 10 sides of the star. All the remaining ones should have no holes in them. They all get adhered in the same way although it gets trickier as you have more attached.
• Just make sure to always have the side braces meet in the center and to be sure the edge of the star is all they way into the slot before adhering.

• This is what the inner stack will look like once you have all 10 side braces adhered.
• Keep the faith. It gets easier with each layer you add!

8. Add layer 2 to the stack.

• Place layer 2 behind layer one. The buck should be on the right as you look from the front.
• Turn everything over and work from the back.

• You can start in any corner and work your way around the star.
• Take a side brace and position it so layer 2 is in the next slot along the brace. Layer 2 should be spaced 1/2" from the previous layer.
• Again, be sure the edge of the brace is lined up exactly with the center of the star notch.
• Peel the Scor-Tape strip and adhere the first side of layer 2 in place.
• Continue around the star adhering each side brace to Layer 2 always watching to be sure things are lining up. Keep those braces touching in the center of the V's!
• Make sure you peel and stick both sides of each slot.

9. Move on to layer 3 - the line of pine trees.

• Layer 3 is the row of pine trees. 
• Place it behind layer two and repeating the same series of steps, adhering each of the 10 side braces to Layer 3.
• Don't move on to Layer 4. Start inserting lights.

10. Start installing lights.

• It is easier to install the lights as you build up the layers. It can be done at the end but you don't have a lot of space for fingers.
• About the lighting: I used a 24 light string of tiny battery operated fairy lights that I purchased from Amazon. Here is a link. (I am an affiliate).
• You want to place the lights in each of the 3 last layers down below so the light shines up through the layers and visually separates the designs.
• You do not want any of the lights to be visible from the front so check periodically.
• Start by placing the first light up through one of the holes in the lower side braces between layers 2 and 3. You will want to use about 5-6 lights in each layer and some get lost in the seams. Push the lights up through the holes adding little hooks in the wire to help hold them in place. You will not put one in every hole but use the holes that work best for spacing. It will depend on how much space there is between lights on the LED set you purchased. I made a peak in the wire with the LED at the top and pushed it up through the hole and then repeated for several holes.

• There are some differences in the wiring of this shadow box and the Heart Tree shadow box but you can watch this video if you need additional assistance.

• Add pieces of scotch tape to hold the lights in place. You don't want them to fall out or move over time. The lights are not replaceable - although the batteries are and you will have access to those.

11. Add Layer 4.

• Before you start attaching the side braces to layer 4 (Mountains) grab the wire and lights and thread it through the opening below the mountains. (Another change here, I made this hole smaller in the final version to make it easier to hide lights.)
• Place the mountain layer and adhere all 10 side braces in the same way you did all previous layers.
• Continue to be careful about placement.

• Layer 5 is the solid star with crescent cut outs.
• You hook the lights into the crescents before you glue it in place. You want to keep the option of moving lights until you are sure that they can't be seen from the front.

• I ran the wire of the lights up the inside of the layers and taped in place. It was positioned so the wire passed through from the previous space to the back of layer five on the left corner as viewed from the back - right near the row of crescent cut outs.
• I then placed the star and used binders clips to temporarily hold it in place.
• Again I made little peaks of the lights and inserted them through the crescents. They should be placed below the mountains but near the top for optimal effect.

• The binder clips will allow you to turn the stack over and view the lighting. This is to make sure none are visible from the front yet they are well placed to provide visual separation of layers.

12 Add Layer 5.

• Once you are happy with light placement, place scotch tape on the wires on the back of layer 5 to hold the lights in place.
• Adhere all 10 side braces to layer five using the same procedure as the previous 4 layers.
• Position the end of the string of lights down through the lower corner and tape to hold.

• Here is the video on finishing up. Much of it is the same.

14. Insert the stack of layers into the star frame.

• Understand how this stack will fit into the star frame. I placed it in there to test before removing any Scor-Tape backing strips.
• Check the front and see how the front tabs will be adhered to the back of the front star and hold the stack in place and 1/2" back from the front star. You can refer to the color line drawing at the beginning of this tutorial to see how the front tab is to be positioned.
• Once you are satisfied that it will fit, remove it from the frame.

• Remove the Scor-Tape on all 10 tabs on the front of the star. 
• Fold each tab in toward the center so it will stay away from the side walls as you place the stack in the star frame again. You don't want it to accidentally stick to the side on the way in.
• You might want to use binder clips toward the center to hold them in while you do this.
• Slide the stacked insert of layers into the star.

• One by one, carefully position each front tab so it sticks to the inside of the star and holds the stack 1/2" back from the front. I used a long skinny letter opener to insert into the gaps in the corners to help with positioning and then press in place.
• Repeat with all 10 sides.

• I couldn't get good pressure on the last tabs to get effective sticking for the Scor-Tape so I switched to hot glue and finished the back tabs with that.

• Apply Scor-Tape to one side of the open star and adhere to the back covering all the tabs.
• The back is finished. This is what it should look like.

• Peel one corner and place the star.
• Peel each section of the backing and slowly place the star on the front, pressing in place as you go, making sure no puckers form.

• Congratulations! The shadow box is complete!

• Turn on the light and be surprised at how it wonderfully illuminates the layers making them visually pop!
• Find a space to display your new creation.